650 Berg mods

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DaveBotts
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 11:42 am

650 Berg mods

Post by DaveBotts »

Hi all,
Just bringing a stock 650 down under and was wondering what is the usual gp mods that an 08 630 berg would get? I see there are 105mm,108mm big bore kits,valves,cams,clutch mods, bottom end bearing mods etc...
Dont want to go too far and create a handgrenade,so chasing some advice on whats the norm and how far i can go while maintaining some reliability.
Thanks in advance
Dave
stephan

Re: 650 Berg mods

Post by stephan »

Hi Dave,

for reliability you could replace the single conical valve springs for double valve springs. KTM sells an ATV valve spring kit (part#83036028044) or Husaberg also sells a kit with valves, washers, valve seals and double springs #00060000030. Look at http://husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=16755 for more info.

An oil cooler is not a bad idea either. At http://www.jbsracing.co.uk/ there's an example but I don't know if they're still in business.

Clutch; replace the 4 steel plates in the middle for 1,4mm from KTM. Check if this all fits in the outer clutch hub. The older Husabergs use 1.8mm lining disks that can be used for compensation. Change oil regularly and use a good oil that can handle the heat. Synthetic, mineral or something in between, as many opinions as choices. In the summer I'm using Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W-50, mineral and the clutch is happier than with synthetic. But it all depends on availability and like I said, many choices and opinions here. ;-)

When doing the engine bearings take care that you've at least 1 mm (!) of free axial play and not the factory's 0,5mm. You could replace the balancer with a washer but take care that the engine bearing can get some oil.

For big bore kits and stroking there's nothing available ready from the shelf. The engine is standard already good enough for hobby level. Get the carburettor settings correct, especially the needle type and position is important.

The 2008-2008 engines are normally very reliable. Keep it simple and just ride it.

Regards,
Stephan
DaveBotts
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 11:42 am

Re: 650 Berg mods

Post by DaveBotts »

Cheers for the input.Have an oil cooler, info on other mods very helpful.
:thumb:
DaveBotts
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 11:42 am

Re: 650 Berg mods

Post by DaveBotts »

Hey guys,
Just a question regarding oil quantity. Im running an external oil cooler which i was told needs an extra litre of oil.This plus engine quantity brings it up to 1.8l. The problem im having is blowing waterpump seal. How do you get around this? Im letting it idle for a while to let oil fill up cooler but ive replaced 2.
Cheers
Dave
stephan

Re: 650 Berg mods

Post by stephan »

I'm first filling the oil cooler and it's hoses manually by pumping the oil through with an oilcan. Also when installing the oil filter I fill up the filter housing first. Then you need only slightly additional oil when filling the engine. At the Husaberg.org forum you'll find http://husaberg.org/mechanical/12056-or ... e-kit.html and he's from down under too!
Sometimes the water pump shaft has a groove at the seal's lip location, then you have to install the new seal in a slightly different position (less deep and spring outwards!). Some people found a Kawasaki seal better than the stock Husaberg (KTM) seal, see http://husaberg.org/cooling-systems/141 ... l-fix.html. Also the little O-ring at the water pump shaft has to be okay or replaced.

Regards,

Stephan
DaveBotts
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 11:42 am

Re: 650 Berg mods

Post by DaveBotts »

Cheers for the info Stephan.Ill try filling as you suggest.How much oil are you putting in the engine after cooler and filter housing topped are up?
Regards
Dave
stephan

Re: 650 Berg mods

Post by stephan »

Depends on the size/type of the oil cooler. After a rebuild, when the engine parts have been cleaned completely, 1 - 1,1 liter. When doing a normal oil exchange without filter 0,9 liter. When I'm exchanging the oil I drain only the oil in the engine, it's not a full exchange but I'm doing this after each race or training. Of course you have to check the oil level, with a correct level installed engine the oil is covering the lower part of the glass (sidecar engines are not always installed 100% level to compensate for the engine's height, check this).
And after an engine rebuild or burned clutch you should drain and pump fresh oil through the oil cooler to make sure no debris hanging around there. Don't forget to check and clean now and then the oil screen too (next to the oil drain plug).

Regards,
Stephan

PS: the oil drain plug's seal you'll find much cheaper from a hydraulic shop, replace it each oil exchange.
DaveBotts
Posts: 7
Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2013 11:42 am

Re: 650 Berg mods

Post by DaveBotts »

Cheers Stephan. :thumb:
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